Never over-salt your pool again. Enter your volume and current salinity level to find exactly how many bags of salt you need to buy.
If your Salt Water Generator (SWG) is flashing a "Low Salt" or "Inspect Cell" warning, it has stopped producing chlorine. Here is how to use this tool to get it running again:
Saltwater pools are not chlorine-free pools. A Salt Water Generator uses a process called electrolysis to convert dissolved salt (Sodium Chloride) into Free Chlorine. In order for that electrical reaction to happen safely, the water needs to have a specific conductivity.
Most major SWG brands (like Hayward, Pentair, and Jandy) require a salt level between 2,700 ppm and 3,400 ppm. Our calculator defaults to a target of 3,200 ppm, which provides optimal conductivity without risking "high salt" warnings.
Unlike liquid chlorine or acid, salt does not evaporate or break down. The only way salt leaves your pool is through splash-out or backwashing. Because of this, it is always better to under-shoot your target slightly. If you add too much, you will have to physically drain water out of the pool.
If you are starting with completely fresh water (0 ppm of salt), a standard 15,000-gallon pool will require roughly 400 pounds of salt, which equals exactly ten 40-pound bags, to reach a target of 3,200 ppm.
You must leave your SWG turned OFF for at least 24 hours after adding salt. Leave the main pool pump running on high speed during this time to circulate the water. Turning the cell on while highly concentrated, undissolved salt passes through it can instantly short out the unit and destroy the titanium plates.
Yes. If your salt levels exceed 4,000 ppm, many generators will display a 'High Salt' error and shut down completely. High salinity also acts as an electrolyte, heavily accelerating galvanic corrosion on metal pool ladders, light fixture rings, and heater heat exchangers.
Now that your salt level is dialed in, make sure your pH, Alkalinity, and CYA are ready for the season, or diagnose your salt water generator.
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